Selfish Sewing Week Guest Blogger: Sew DIY
Hi there sewing friends! I’m so excited to be a part of Selfish Sewing Week. For today’s theme of Fall Dresses, I decided to make the Inari Tee dress. I’ve been looking to revamp my work wardrobe and I love the ease of throwing on a dress and running out the door.
The Inari Tee Dress by Named Patterns is a very easy to make cocoon style dress with cuffed short sleeves and side seams that angle towards the front. And maybe my favorite part is the vent at the side seam hem. So many great details and a really easy to fit style.
I made a size 42, one size smaller than my bust measurements, so that there would be about 2 inches of ease at the bust. I also (very wisely, I must say) made a muslin to make sure the fit would be ok before I cut into my silk. The muslin looked good as is but I wanted to make a few tweaks. The muslin was a little bit hard to get over my head (and I don't have a big head so you might want to check that) so I decided to lower the front neckline about an inch.
Because I changed the neckline, I also redrew the facing to match. The original facing was a little narrower than I like so when I redrew it I made it about 2 inches wide. I also lengthened the body 2.25 inches so it hit around my knee. The pattern is designed for a 5'8" woman and I'm 5'11". Looking at the photos later, the longer length combined with the loose fit makes it a little dowdier but I do want it to be work appropriate.
The fabric is a gorgeous charcoal black silk with splashes of neon green that I found at Mood Fabrics LA store. I wanted this dress to be really luxurious so I decided to also add a lining to it. I followed this shortcut method from Threads magazine. The lining fabric is a basic poly crepe from Michael Levine that has a really nice, not slick feel to it. I did things in a slightly different order than in the instructions in order to accommodate the lining. So if you’re thinking about lining your Inari dress, here are the basics:
1. Cut the lining fabric the same as the front and back except fold up the front and back pattern pieces at the bottom hem notch. (You’re just cutting the lining slightly shorter than the dress pieces.) Cut facings as usual but do not cut and apply interfacing.
2. Stitch lining together at shoulders and side seams stopping at vent.
3. Stitch facings at shoulder seams. Finish bottom edge of facings with serger or by folding raw edge to wrong side and stitching.
4. Pin wrong side of facing to right side of lining and baste at neck edge. Stitch facing to lining along bottom edge of facing.
5. Stitch dress together as instructed except for neckline and hem. Skip those for now.
6. With right sides together, stitch lining to dress at neckline. Clip curves, grade seams and under stitch seam allowance to lining. Turn lining to inside and press. (You will be able to see the facing on the inside of the dress so if it peeks out a little it will match your dress. Yay!)
7. Stitch lining to dress at armhole edges. (I just machine stitched all the seam allowances together. But if you want a cleaner finish, you can press the seam allowance towards the shoulder, fold in the lining seam allowance and hand stitch it in place.)
8. Fold up hem at marking with right sides together (as in original instructions) and pin in place. Doing one vent at a time, pin right side of lining to right side of dress aligning the bottom of the lining to the fold of the dress. (The right side of the lining will be facing the right side of the dress and the wrong side of the hem.) Stitch from vent to hem. Fold dress hem to wrong side encompassing lining.
9. Topstitch hem as in original instructions or invisibly stitch hem to lining by hand.
I love how clean this method looks on the inside of the dress. It gives the garment a more high-end feel and will hopefully also protect the silk from perspiration. It's almost too fancy to wear to work but I will be sure to take it out on the town soon. This dress is a really great simple project, and even with the lining it only took about 6 hours to sew.
This pattern is sure to become a staple in my wardrobe. Living in LA, where winter is more of an idea than an actual season, I don't need a lot of cool weather clothes. But this dress could easily be styled for cooler temps when paired with tights, boots and a sweater. Or if it's 90 degrees, you can wear it like I did here with just a pair of sandals. It’s a great transitional piece that can showcase a great piece of fabric and is as easy to wear as it is to make.
Indiesew provided me the Inari Tee sewing pattern as part of Selfish Sewing Week, but all thoughts and opinions are my own.
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