Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong Pt 6: Sewing the Collar/Waistband and Prepping the Zipper
It's Day 6 of the Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong and we're getting so much closer to having a finished sweatshirt! Today we'll tackle the waistband and collar, and we'll be basting the zipper into the center front.
If you're just tuning in, here's the sewalong schedule:
- April 23: Gathering your Supplies
- April 24: Cutting the Pattern and Fabric
- April 25: Sewing the Pockets
- April 26: Sewing the Shoulders, Sleeves, and Side Seams
- April 27: Sewing the Cuffs
- April 28: Sewing the Collar/Waistband and Prepping the Zipper
- April 29: Sewing the Facings and Zipper
- April 30: Final Finishes
Let's dive in!
Prepping the Collar and Waistband
Finish one raw edge on the waistband and collar, being careful to note which edges are indicated in the pattern. Re-snip all notches after finishing so that they are visible.
The bottom finished edge of the collar should look like the photo below. Notice that the larger end of the collar is pointing to the left and the smaller end is pointing to the right when the right side of the fabric is facing you.
This is what the top finished edge of the waistband will look like. The convex edge of the waistband will be facing the right and the concave edge will be facing the left when looking at the right side of the fabric.
Sew the Waistband and Collar to the Bodices
Pin the long unfinished edge of the waistband to the bodices right sides together, matching the notches to the corresponding side seams.
Sew the waistband to the bodices with a 3/8" seam allowance. Press this seam up.
Pin the collar to the neckline with right sides together. Match the notches on the collar to the corresponding shoulder seams. You'll have to ease the curved neckline edge onto the straight collar edge. I recommending using a lot of pins here.
Sew the collar to the neckline with a 3/8" seam allowance. Press this seam down.
Prep the Center Front for the Zipper
Apply long strips of 1/2" wide interfacing to the center front seam allowances, ensuring the collar seam stays pressed down and the waistband seam stays pressed up.
At the points of the collar, you can cut the interfacing to pivot around the corner. Piece together the strips of interfacing as needed; it won't be visible from the inside of the garment.
Apply Wonder Tape to each side of the separating zipper. Unzip the zipper and remove the Wonder Tape backing from the right side of the zipper (the side with the pull).
Align the zipper face down on the right side of the center front. The bottom stop should align with the notch on the center of the waistband. The upper stop should align with the notch on the center of the collar.
Fold the top of the zipper tape back on itself and secure with a small strip of Wonder Tape.
Baste the right zipper to the bodice with a long straight stitch at 1/4" seam allowance.
This is what the top of the zipper should look like after it's tacked down with the basting stitch:
After basting, zip the left side of the zipper to the right and mark where the waistband seam aligns on the wrong side of the zipper tape. Don't worry about aligning the collar seams, as these are not meant to align perfectly and are hidden when worn.
Unzip the zipper, remove the Wonder Tape backing from the left side of the zipper. Align the left zipper to the center front, matching the marking on the zipper tape with the waistband seam. Baste the left side of the zipper to the bodice, just like you did for the right side.
Nice work! Tomorrow we're ready to get our facings sewn into the garment!
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