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Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong Pt 2: Cutting the Pattern and Fabric

By Allie

Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.

Indiesew.com | Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong Pt 2: Cutting the Pattern and Fabric

Welcome back to day two of the Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong! Yesterday we had an in-depth discussion of the supplies you will need for your own Moto Sweatshirt. If your fabric is prewashed and your supplies are sourced, let's dive right into cutting out the pattern and fabric!

If you're just tuning in, here's the sewalong schedule:

 

Printing and Cutting out the Pattern

Sewing veterans likely know how to print and cut out a sewing pattern. If this is your first foray into the indie sewing world, I recommend you take a look this post:

How to Use a Digital Sewing Pattern > 

And if you don't want to bother with taping together a bunch of small pieces of paper, you can use the copy shop file that accompanies this pattern. Here's detailed instructions on that:

How to Use a Copy Shop File >

Once your pattern is printed, cut (or trace) around the pattern pieces paying special attention to which line corresponds to each size. I cut my paper patterns with a small rotary blade, making the process quick and easy.

Then lay the paper pattern on my fabric paying special attention to the direction of greatest stretch. Use pattern weights or pins to keep your pattern from shifting on the fabric and cut around each pattern piece. A quilters ruler and rotary blade makes quick work of the straight lines.

Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong Pt 2: Cutting the Pattern

Be careful to note the cutting instructions on each pattern piece. Because this is an asymmetrical design, many pattern pieces are cut on a single layer of fabric. You'll see this in the pattern inventory diagram below.

 

Notching and marking the Pattern

Once the pattern pieces are cut from the fabric, snip a small 1/4" cut into the fabric at the notches on the armscye, collar and waistband.

Snipping Pattern Notches | Indiesew Sewing Tutorials

With tailor's chalk, transfer the rectangular pocket markings to the right and wrong side of the front bodices. Also transfer those rectangular markings to the wrong side of one mirror image set of pocket bags.

Marking Pocket Openings | Moto Sweatshirt Sewing Pattern

 

Pattern Inventory

After your pattern is cut out and notched/marked, it should look something like this:

Moto Sweatshirt Sewalong | Pattern Layout 2

If you are planning on sewing a contrast waistband, collar, or cuffs be sure to cut those pieces out of your contrast fabric. 

 

Shoulder Adjustment

Seamly sewing patterns are drafted for broad shoulders. If your shoulders tend toward the narrow side, the shoulder seams of this design will be slightly dropped. It's not difficult to adjust the pattern if you prefer the shoulder seams to sit right atop your shoulders.

This Threads article is an incredibly in-depth look at making shoulder and sleeve adjustments. If you are making complex shoulder, armscye, or sleeve adjustments or adjustments to a woven garment I highly recommending following their instructions.

But since the Moto Sweatshirt is a knit garment with a forgiving fit, I'll show you my quick method for adjusting my pattern pieces. If you plan to make the same adjustment, make these changes to the pattern pieces before you cut from your fabric.

Indiesew.com | Shoulder Adjustment on a Knit Garment

First, I shave off about 1/2" from the shoulder seam, blending the armhole curve to meet the existing curve just above the notches. Repeat this on all four armscye curves.

Then, I slice the sleeve cap horizontally above the notches and add about 1/4" in vertical height to the sleeve cap. The general rule is to add roughly half the amount of height to the sleeve cap that you removed from the shoulder seam.

Please note: This is a quick, nontechnical method for adjusting the shoulder width of a garment. If you need more complex fit adjustments to your garment (for example, the armscye curve is too low), I recommend you read the Threads article above carefully and make the appropriate changes per their instruction.

Once I've made these changes I'll go ahead and cut my pattern from the fabric and I'm ready to sew!

Let's meet back here tomorrow when we'll start sewing the zippered hand pockets. Get your Wash Away Wonder Tape ready! 

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