Lonetree Sewalong Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings
Hey folks! If you're sewing a Lonetree Vest, today's sewalong post is just for you! We'll be attaching our armscye facings and I'll be offering several tips to make the process a bit easier.
Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.
- Feb 20 | Pt 1: Gathering Your Supplies
- Feb 21 | Pt 2: Cutting out the Pattern
- Feb 22 | Pt 3: Applying Interfacing and Finishing Raw Edges
- Feb 23 | Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
- Feb 24 | Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
- Feb 25 | Pt 6: Sewing Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
- Feb 27 | Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs (View A)
- Feb 28 | Pt 8: Sewing the Optional Hood
- Mar 1 | Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings (View B)
- Mar 2 | Pt 10: Sewing the Facings and Collar
- Mar 3 | Pt 11: Sewing the Zipper
- Mar 4 | Pt 12: Final Finishes and Hem
First, I want to mention that if you're not using a serger for your Lonetree Vest, this process is going to require a fair amount of precise pressing and sewing. I don't recommend that a total newbie sewist try to tackle a blindstitched armscye facing if you're all about achieving a perfect outcome. If that sounds like you, I recommend using bias tape on your armholes.
But, of course, there's no way to learn new methods without lots of practice. I'm a big proponent of diving in, taking it slow, and embracing the process. So if you're okay with a few imperfections, then I encourage you to give the Lonetree Vest armscye facings a shot.
If you're using a serger, and don't mind the visible serger stitch on the inside of your garment, then this process will be a breeze. You won't need to press the edge of your facings towards the wrong side, and therefore won't need to be as precise with your blindstitching.
First, place one back and one front armhole facing right sides together, aligning the short ends. Note how the bottom seams are aligned in the photo below. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.
Press those seams open. If you're not using a serger, sew around the outer edge of the facings with a 3/8" seam allowance. This stitch will act as a guide for pressing. If the outer edges of your seams are already serged, you can leave the edge unpressed.
Press the outer edge of the facing towards the wrong side on the stitch line. Then pin the armhole facing onto the armhole with right sides together, matching notches and seams.
Going slow around the curve, sew the facing to the armhole with a very consistent 1/2" seam allowance. Snip notches into the seam allowance (but not over the seam) around the entire armhole.
To prepare for understitching, press the facing and the seam allowances away from the bodice. (It's important here to keep the outer edge of the facings pressed at the stitch line. Re-press them as needed). Understitch a 1/8" seam allowance.
Press the facings towards the wrong side of the garment. Pin the facing down (making sure the folded edges stay tucked). Use lots of pins to secure the facing around the entire armhole.
Tip: You can pin and sew from the right or wrong side of the garment; it's up to you. I usually pin from the wrong side (to make sure the folded edge stays tucked), but sew very slowly from the right side. I use my left index finger to feel for the folded edge of the facing, so I ensure that my stitch is catching the facing underneath. This is called blindstitching.
This is what the finished facing should look like from the right side of the garment. Check the wrong side to make sure you've sewn the facing down around the entire armhole. If the seam seems a little uneven from the inside, that's ok. This technique takes a lot of practice to get the hang of.
We're one step closer to a finished Lonetree Vest! Tomorrow we'll be sewing our facings and attaching the collar!
Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!
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