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Lonetree Sewalong Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs

By Allie

Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.

Lonetree Sewalong | Part 7

Welcome back! Today is Part 7 of the Lonetree Jacket and Vest Sewalong, where we’ll be sewing the sleeves and cuffs onto our Lonetree Jacket. If you’re sewing a Lonetree Vest you can tune back in tomorrow (or Thursday if you’re omitting the optional hood).

 Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.

 

Sew the Back Seam

Align the upper and lower sleeves right sides together, matching notches. Sew from the sleeve cap down to the bottom notch only and backstitch.

Lonetree Sleeves | Pin Back Sleeve Seam and Sew

 

If Edges are Serged:

Snip into the seam allowance at the bottom notch, but not through the seam. Press the seam open. Tuck the seam allowance below the notch underneath itself and press well.

Snip sleeve seam and press under | Indiesew.com

If Edges Are Not Serged:

DO NOT snip into the seam allowance at the bottom notch. Instead, press the seam open and tuck the seam allowance underneath itself and press well along the entire length of the seam. Topstitch the entire seam with a 1/8" seam allowance on each side of the seam line.

 

 

Topstitch the Sleeve Vent

From the right side of the sleeve, topstitch the sleeve vent with a 1/8” seam allowance pivoting just above the end of the seam and sewing back down the opposite side of the vent.
 Lonetree Jacket | Sew Sleeve Vent

 

Set the Sleeve

Sew two basting stitches along the top of the sleeve cap between the seam and the notches: one at 3/8” and another at 5/8”.

Be sure to leave long thread tails at each end of the basting stitch. You can slightly gather the sleeve cap now by pulling the bobbin threads of each basting stitch. Or you can wait until the sleeve is pinned into the armhole.

Setting in a jacket sleeve | Indiesew Blog

Align the underarm edges of the sleeve right sides together, matching notches. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance. 

Pin and sew underarm seam. | Indiesew Sewing Tutorials

Finish these seam allowances together, press them towards the back of the sleeve. If you're not using a serger, you can flat-fell these seams like we did in Part 6.

Finish underarm seams and press back. 
Insert the sleeve into the armhole with right sides together. First, align the underarm seams and the center sleeve cap notch with the shoulder seam. Then, align the front notches and back notche with the sleeve seam. Adjust the sleeve cap gathers until the sleeve cap fits well inside the armhole. (You’ll likely need to gather more of the back sleeve cap than the front.)

Sew, ensuring that your stitch travels in between your two basting stitches.

How to Sew a Set-In Jacket Sleeve | Lonetree Sewalong

Turn the sleeve right side out and inspect your sleeve for any puckers around the sleeve cap. If all looks good, remove the visible basting stitches with a seam ripper.

Remove visible basting stitches | Lonetree Sleeves

Finish these seam allowances together and press up towards the bodices. If you're not using a serger, you can flat-fell these seams like we did in Part 6. Here's a great tutorial on how to flat-fell armhole seams.

Finish armhole seam allowances | Indiesew.com

 

Sew the Cuffs

Press one long edge of the cuff (the edge farthest from the button/snap markings) towards the wrong side by ½”. Then press the cuff again at the center notches, right sides together. Sew the side of each cuff, tacking down these folds.

Press cuff edges and sew | Lonetree Jacket Sewalong

Take a close look at the cuff diagram in Step 25 of the sewing pattern to see how each cuff should be aligned on each sleeve. It’s most important that the seam allowance extend beyond the sleeve vent on the side opposite the back sleeve seam by 1/2".

Pinned Lonetree Cuffs | Indiesew Blog

Note: Don’t worry too much here about which side of the vent the snap placement markings should be. Those are really just guides for where your snaps or buttons could be placed, but based on your wrist circumference, we’ll be adjusting those markings after our cuff is sewn on.

Sew the cuff to the sleeve with a ½” seam allowance, taking care not to sew over the ½” cuff fold underneath.

Clip the top corners of your cuff if you’d like to reduce bulk and then turn the cuff right side out.Press the cuff in half so that the folded bottom edge extends just past the stitching line. Pin the folded cuff well, ensuring that you’ll catch the inner folded edge when you topstitch from the right side of the cuff. 

Sew cuff to sleeve and turn. | Lonetree Jacket Sewing Pattern

Topstitch with a 1/4” or 1/8” seam allowance around the entire perimeter of the cuff. I like to start and stop at the center top of the cuff.

Topstitch Jacket Cuff | Indiesew.com

The final step is to install our snaps or sew buttonholes and buttons. I recommend trying on your Lonetree Jacket and adjusting the cuffs until they feel comfortable when clasped shut. The longer “tab” of the cuff traditionally goes to the inside of the cuff, while the flush end of the cuff lays on the outside.

Install snaps or buttonholes/buttons where preferred. If using snaps that come in the Indiesew Lonetree Kits, refer to Part 5 of the sewalong for detailed instructions on how to install those.

Finished Lonetree Cuffs | Indiesew.com

Nice work all! For those of you adding a hood to your Lonetree, let’s meet back here tomorrow. Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!

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