Lonetree Sewalong Pt 6: Sewing the Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
Hello Lonetree Sewalong-ers! Today’s post marks the halfway point of this series. In terms of time spent working on your Lonetree, though, you’re well past the midway point. Hooray!
Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.
- Feb 20 | Pt 1: Gathering Your Supplies
- Feb 21 | Pt 2: Cutting out the Pattern
- Feb 22 | Pt 3: Applying Interfacing and Finishing Raw Edges
- Feb 23 | Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
- Feb 24 | Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
- Feb 25 | Pt 6: Sewing Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
- Feb 27 | Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs (View A)
- Feb 28 | Pt 8: Sewing the Optional Hood
- Mar 1 | Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings (View B)
- Mar 2 | Pt 10: Sewing the Facings and Collar
- Mar 3 | Pt 11: Sewing the Zipper
- Mar 4 | Pt 12: Final Finishes and Hem
In this segment we’ll be sewing the side and shoulder seams and attaching the drawstring casing. This is my favorite part of sewing the Lonetree Jacket and Vest because in just a few steps we’ll make real progress towards having a wearable jacket or vest! Let’s dive in.
Sew the Side Seams
With Serged Edges
First, align the side seams of one front bodice and the back bodice right sides together matching notches. Pin and sew with a 1/2” seam allowance. If you serged your seams, press these seams open. Repeat for the opposite side seam.
With Flat Felled Seams
If you don’t have a serger, below is the process for sewing flat felled seams.
Sew the side seam as instructed above with a 1/2" seam allowance. Then, trim the back bodice seam allowance only to 1/4”. Leave the front bodice seam allowance intact.
Press the front bodice seam allowance over the trimmed back bodice seam allowance. Make sure the raw edge of the front bodice seam allowance meets the seam line. Once pressed over, press the entire seam allowance towards the back bodice.
On the wrong side of the garment, sew the seam allowance down with a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side seam.
You can use this method for the shoulder seams as well!
Sew the Drawstring Casing
Now that our side seams are sewn, we’re ready to sew the drawstring casing. To do this, align the short angled ends of the side casings with the short angled ends of the center casing. Sew with a ½” seam allowance.
Press the casing seams open. If using a serger, serge both long ends of the drawstring casing. If you don’t have a serger, you can skip this step.
Sew 1/2” buttonholes into each end of the casing. To do this, I use a 3/8” button with my automatic buttonhole foot. You can use whatever method you prefer.
Apply fray check to the buttonhole and open it carefully with a seam ripper or scissors.
Press the long edges of the casing towards the wrong side by 1/2".
Place the casing wrong side down on the right side of the bodices, centering it between the casing markings. Make sure that the casing seams align with the bodice side seams.
Here’s what the casing will look like if you didn’t use a serger:
Edgestitch both sides of the casing onto the bodices using a 1/4 or 1/8” seam allowance.
Sew the Shoulder Seams
Align the shoulder seams of the front bodices and back bodice right sides together. Pin and sew with a 1/2” seam allowance. Press these seams open.
Nice work: your Lonetree Jacket or Vest is now looking more like a wearable garment! On Monday we’ll be sewing the sleeves and cuffs for View A.
Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!
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