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Lonetree Sewalong Pt 6: Sewing the Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams

By Allie

Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.

Lonetree Sewalong | Part 6

Hello Lonetree Sewalong-ers! Today’s post marks the halfway point of this series. In terms of time spent working on your Lonetree, though, you’re well past the midway point. Hooray!

 Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.

In this segment we’ll be sewing the side and shoulder seams and attaching the drawstring casing. This is my favorite part of sewing the Lonetree Jacket and Vest because in just a few steps we’ll make real progress towards having a wearable jacket or vest! Let’s dive in. 

 

Sew the Side Seams

With Serged Edges

First, align the side seams of one front bodice and the back bodice right sides together matching notches. Pin and sew with a 1/2” seam allowance. If you serged your seams, press these seams open. Repeat for the opposite side seam.

Lonetree Sewalong | Pin and Sew Side Seams 

With Flat Felled Seams

If you don’t have a serger, below is the process for sewing flat felled seams.

Sew the side seam as instructed above with a 1/2" seam allowance. Then, trim the back bodice seam allowance only to 1/4”. Leave the front bodice seam allowance intact.

Grade Seam Allowance | How to Flat Fell Seams

Press the front bodice seam allowance over the trimmed back bodice seam allowance. Make sure the raw edge of the front bodice seam allowance meets the seam line. Once pressed over, press the entire seam allowance towards the back bodice.
 Press Flat Felled Seam | Indiesew Tutorials

On the wrong side of the garment, sew the seam allowance down with a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side seam.

Sew Flat Felled Seam | Lonetree Vest Sewalong

You can use this method for the shoulder seams as well! 

 

Sew the Drawstring Casing

Now that our side seams are sewn, we’re ready to sew the drawstring casing. To do this, align the short angled ends of the side casings with the short angled ends of the center casing. Sew with a ½” seam allowance.
 Pin and sew drawstring casing. | Indiesew Blog

Press the casing seams open. If using a serger, serge both long ends of the drawstring casing. If you don’t have a serger, you can skip this step.

Press and serge casing | Lonetree Sewalong

Sew 1/2” buttonholes into each end of the casing. To do this, I use a 3/8” button with my automatic buttonhole foot. You can use whatever method you prefer.
 Sew buttonholes into drawstring casing. | Lonetree Jacket

Apply fray check to the buttonhole and open it carefully with a seam ripper or scissors.

How to Open a Buttonhole | Indiesew Blog

Press the long edges of the casing towards the wrong side by 1/2".

Press Casing Long Edges | DIY Fashion

Place the casing wrong side down on the right side of the bodices, centering it between the casing markings. Make sure that the casing seams align with the bodice side seams.
 Pin drawstring casing to bodices | Lonetree Jacket

Here’s what the casing will look like if you didn’t use a serger:
 Casing without serged seams | Lonetree Vest

Edgestitch both sides of the casing onto the bodices using a 1/4 or 1/8” seam allowance.

Edgestitch Casing to Bodices | How to Sew a Jacket

 

Sew the Shoulder Seams

Align the shoulder seams of the front bodices and back bodice right sides together. Pin and sew with a 1/2” seam allowance. Press these seams open.
 Sew Shoulder Seams  | Indiesew Blog

Nice work: your Lonetree Jacket or Vest is now looking more like a wearable garment! On Monday we’ll be sewing the sleeves and cuffs for View A.

Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!

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