Lonetree Sewalong Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
Welcome back everyone, we’re on Part 5 of the Lonetree Sewalong. Today is entirely devoted to sewing those pretty utility pockets!
Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.
- Feb 20 | Pt 1: Gathering Your Supplies
- Feb 21 | Pt 2: Cutting out the Pattern
- Feb 22 | Pt 3: Applying Interfacing and Finishing Raw Edges
- Feb 23 | Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
- Feb 24 | Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
- Feb 25 | Pt 6: Sewing Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
- Feb 27 | Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs (View A)
- Feb 28 | Pt 8: Sewing the Optional Hood
- Mar 1 | Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings (View B)
- Mar 2 | Pt 10: Sewing the Facings and Collar
- Mar 3 | Pt 11: Sewing the Zipper
- Mar 4 | Pt 12: Final Finishes and Hem
Anyone who has sewn a Lonetree Jacket or Vest will tell you that sewing the pockets and flaps is the most time-consuming part of the process. It’s by no means complicated, but it is a bit repetitive. This segment of the sewalong is an excellent one to turn on your favorite podcast or TV show in the background. I’ll show you what I mean.
Please note: For every step photographed below, you’ll need to repeat the process for the remaining three sets of pockets and flaps. While the upper pockets and flaps are smaller than the lower pockets, the construction is essentially the same, save for the hem allowance. I’ll note that difference below.
Sewing the Pockets
First, press the top of the pocket towards the wrong side by 3/8”. Then, press the top of the pocket towards the right side at the notches.
Sew these folds down, using our standard ½” seam allowance. You’ll be stitching just down to the bottom of the folded fabric, backstitching at the beginning and end. Then, turn the top of the pocket right side out, using a point turner for crisp corners.
Note: The pattern instructs you to clip the corner of the pocket to reduce bulk. This is optional, but is recommended for bulky fabrics. If you do clip your corners, be careful not to push the corner all the way to the outside so that your raw edges show.
Press the sides and bottom of the pocket towards the wrong side by ½”. I like to tuck the diagonal edge under the bottom and side edges. Hem the top of the lower pockets with a ¾” seam allowance. Hem the top of the upper pockets with a ½” seam allowance.
Place the hemmed pocket on the front bodice, centering it between the bottom four markings. Pin the pocket to the bodice and topstitch the pocket to the bodice (around the sides and bottom) with a ¼” seam allowance.
Without a Serger
The process for sewing the pockets and flaps is the same whether or not you're using a serger. For those not using a serger, the sides and bottom of the pocket will be unfinished inside the pocket, but it should not cause a problem.
Sewing the Pocket Flaps
Place two of the pocket flaps right sides together. Sew around the sides and bottom using a ½” seam allowance.
Trim these seam allowances down to ¼” and cut small notches into each corner, being careful not to cut through the stitch line. Turn the pocket flap right side out, using a point turner for crisp corners.
Press the pocket well and topstitch around the sides and bottom using a ¼” seam allowance. If you plan to use buttons instead of snaps, sew the buttonhole into the flap.
Press the top of the pocket flap towards the wrong side by ½”. Then, place the pocket flap right side down on the bodice, aligning the fold of the flap with the top set of markings. Pin the pocket flap to the bodice.
Sew the pocket flap to the bodice along the fold line and trim the seam allowance to 1/8”.
Press the flap down towards the pocket and topstitch the top of the pocket flap with a ¼” seam allowance.
This section will show you how to attach the heavy duty snaps that come in our Lonetree Kits. You’ll also find directions for attaching these snaps on the back of the snap packaging. The terminology I use below is based on those directions.
To start, decide where you’d like your snap to be placed on the pocket flap. Press the decorative prong teeth through both layers of fabric and align the socket on top of the decorative prong teeth. Place the metal cup over the decorative prong.
Place the setter tool over the socket and, using a hammer, pound the socket onto the decorative prong.
On the pocket, use tailor’s chalk to mark where the stud should align under the socket. Align the prong on the wrong side of the pocket, pressing the teeth through the fabric. Then place the stud on top of the prong teeth.
Align the metal cup under the prong and place the setter tool over the stud. Use your hammer to pound the stud onto the prong. Step back and admire your newly attached snaps!
Nice work everyone! Tomorrow we get to start sewing the meat of the Lonetree. Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!
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