Lonetree Sewalong Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
Hello Lonetree Jacket and Vest sewalong-ers! There’s one final step we need to do before we can start stitching together our jacket or vest. Today, we’ll be marking our pattern pieces.
Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.
- Feb 20 | Pt 1: Gathering Your Supplies
- Feb 21 | Pt 2: Cutting out the Pattern
- Feb 22 | Pt 3: Applying Interfacing and Finishing Raw Edges
- Feb 23 | Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
- Feb 24 | Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
- Feb 25 | Pt 6: Sewing Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
- Feb 27 | Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs (View A)
- Feb 28 | Pt 8: Sewing the Optional Hood
- Mar 1 | Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings (View B)
- Mar 2 | Pt 10: Sewing the Facings and Collar
- Mar 3 | Pt 11: Sewing the Zipper
- Mar 4 | Pt 12: Final Finishes and Hem
You might be wondering why we didn’t complete this step in Part 2 of the sewalong. In Part 3 we finished the raw edges of our pattern pieces, so our seam allowance snips would have disappeared beneath the serger stitches. For this design, I prefer to do all my marking and snipping after those edges are finished so they're clearly visible.
The Lonetree Jacket and Vest has many notches and markings. This pattern was created in a powerful patternmaking software that’s intended for clothing production. All of those markings are perfectly placed to make the actual sewing process go super fast.
For marking and notching my pattern pieces, I use this tailor’s chalk tool and my fabric shears. I don’t recommend using a marking medium like Frixion Pen, which will disappear when you iron the garment . We want to make sure these markings stick around throughout most of the sewing.
For any markings that appear as a small line that extends from the seam (we call those notches), you can simply snip roughly ¼” into the fabric. Remember that we have generous 1/2” seam allowances here, so snip far enough into the fabric that you’ll be able to easily see where the notch is placed.
A commonly forgotten notch is the one placed at the center back bodice neckline. Don’t forget to snip that notch so that you can easily align the collar and back facing.
Repeat this process for the rest of the notches on each pattern piece.
Mark Drawstring Casing, Pocket Placement, and buttonholes
We’ll want to mark the drawstring casing with our tailor’s chalk. On the right side of the fabric, draw a straight line that connects the two drawstring casing notches across the front and back bodices.
The drawstring casing lines should be 1” apart.
We also want to mark the upper and lower pocket and flap placement with tailor’s chalk. I use my thread snips to poke a small hole in the paper pattern. Then I mark each dot through the pattern.
I remove the paper pattern and darken each marking to make sure it’s visible.
Don't forget to also mark the buttonhole placement on the drawstring casing, as well as the button and buttonhole placement on the pockets and flaps.
That’s it! Now that all of your pattern pieces are marked, we’ll start sewing pieces together tomorrow! Be sure to load up two bobbins with thread in preparation.
Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!
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