| Sewing Patterns for the Modern Woman - Blog Post: Lonetree Fit and Fabric Selection

Lonetree Fit and Fabric Selection

By Allie

Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.

Lonetree Jacket Fit and Fabric Selection |

I want to extend one huge heartfelt thank you for your enthusiasm around the 2016 Fall/Winter Collection and my first solo design, the Lonetree Jacket and Vest. It’s a bit terrifying to release a design that is a full reflection of your own personal style. It’s scary writing and illustrating a pattern the way I would like to use it, hoping that it meets your standards. If it doesn’t, don’t hesitate to email me at [email protected]

We had nine lovely testers help us perfect the Lonetree pattern, and through the process we learned a lot about fit and fabric selection. Today we’re sharing some tips and tricks for sewing your best Lonetree Jacket, straight out of the gate.



Lonetree Jacket and Vest Fit

The Lonetree Jacket and Vest is an unlined outer layer designed for a height of 5’6”. It’s designed to be semi-fitted through the shoulders and armscyes and has a more relaxed fit from the bust down. It's intended to hit at the mid-hip.

Lonetree Jacket and Vest | Sewing Pattern by Allie Olson

Take a close look at the size chart and finished garment measurements of this garment before you choose the size you want to sew. Because size labels (XS, S, M, etc.) are somewhat arbitrary, you may fall into a different size category than other patterns you’ve sewn.

Lonetree Pattern Size Chart | Indiesew Blog

There are four inches of positive ease at the bust and five inches of positive ease at the hips, which is pretty standard in fall jackets like this. Because of the drawstring and cord stops, the waist can be cinched in to create more or less shape.

How to Fit the Lonetree Jacket by Allie Olson

The Lonetree Jacket and Vest is meant to be worn with thin layers underneath, like a fitted tee or close-fitting button-up shirt. If you plan on wearing sweaters or other bulky items underneath, you might need to size up.

Lonetree Vest | Fit and Fabric Selection

But the best way to find out? Sew a muslin! I know it’s easy to skip the muslin process because it takes precious sewing time away from the sewing project. But for a garment like this, I can’t stress how important it is. Be sure to use a fabric with similar hand, weight, and stretch as the fabric you’ll use for your final Lonetree.

Both the Lonetree Jacket and Vest fit close to the armpit. In the jacket, this allows for better mobility as you move your arm around. In the vest, this eliminates gaping around the armhole (see photo below, worn with Lane Raglan underneath). But for both views, this means you likely won’t be able to wear your favorite oversized hoodie underneath without some serious fabric bunching under your arm. 

Lonetree Vest Armhole | Allie Olson Sewing Pattern

If you’d like a vest with a larger armhole, you can easily open it up to your desired circumference. Teri did just that and bound the armscyes with bias tape. We love the result!

Teri's Lonetree Vest |


Lonetree Extended Sizing Coming Soon!

Since so many of you asked, we will be grading the Lonetree Jacket and Vest into two additional sizes, accommodating up to a 46” bust! Those sizes should be available within the next month. We’ll announce when the updated pattern is available and how to access it for those who have already purchased the Lonetree Jacket.


Lonetree Fabric Selection

The Lonetree Jacket and Vest is designed for woven midweight fabrics like twill, chino, and corduroy. Through testing, we found that using woven fabrics with a bit of stretch (no more than 20% is recommended) worked really well!

In fact, we found that a stretch twill made the jacket comfortable enough to wear all day as the fit was a bit more relaxed. But stretch fabrics certainly aren’t required. Many of our testers used non-stretch fabrics and they loved the result! 

And you’re in luck, because we just released four new twill and chino fabrics perfect for this design! We used this Army Green Stretch Twill (not to be confused with the Dark Army Green Non-Stretch Twill launched with the collection) for the sample you see below. It has about 20% cross-wise stretch.

Army Green Lonetree Jacket

Our Slate Brushed Twill and Navy Brushed Chino both have about 10% stretch, while the Khaki Twill has no stretch. All three of these fabrics have been tested with this design and worked very well! 

New Indiesew Fabrics for the Lonetree Jacket

Fabric ranging from 7 to 10 ounces per square yard will provide structure for this design without being too stiff. If you plan on using a heavier fabric like waxed canvas, you can likely forgo all of the interfacing. Here are a few other fabrics in our shop that will work well:

Indiesew Jacket-Weight Fabrics



Lonetree Kits

Because we know that sourcing coordinating zippers, snaps, and twill tape can be time consuming, we’ll be offering full kits soon! The first kits will be for an army green jacket, but I’d love to hear what other colors you would prefer. Leave a comment below and let us know! 

And soon we’ll be showing you our testers’ photos and a few fun hacks you can use with this pattern. If you’ve already sewn up your Lonetree Jacket, show us your creation here! We can’t wait to see what you come up with.

Happy sewing!

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