Sew and serge your basted seams so that you have a template for your new waistband.
My new waistband had significantly more curve than the original pattern piece. This is a normal adjustment for wide hips and a narrow waist.
Now, there are a few ways to proceed with your modified waistband. First, you can use your new waistband as a template to trace two new waistbands, cut as mirror images. If you have plenty of fabric, I encourage you to take that route. Don’t forget to transfer your pattern markings to the new waistband pattern pieces.
But, if like me, you hate to see even a tiny amount of fabric go to waste, you can use this modified waistband in your finished Jamie Jeans. Simply trace a new inner (mirror image) waistband pattern piece using your modified waistband as a template. Please note that your waistband will have side seams where it normally wouldn’t have. Press the side seams towards the front of the waistband.
Cut out your waistband interfacing, so that the buttonhole is on the right when the right side of the interfacing is facing you.
Interface your outer waistband using a press cloth.
Pin the waistband to your Jamie Jeans so that the outer curved (convex) edge is aligned with the raw edge of the pants, right sides together. Match notches and stretch the waistband so that the fabric is distributed evenly around the pants.
Sew the waistband to the pants with a 3/8” seam allowance and serge seams together.
Press that seam up towards the waistband.
The attached outer waistband should look like this:
Sew Inner Waistband to Outer Waistband
Now it’s time to sew the inner waistband to the outer. Serge the outer curved (convex) edge of the inner waistband to finish the raw edge. Press the serged seam allowance towards the wrong side.
Pin the inner waistband to the outer waistband along the inner curved (concave) edge. Sew with a 3/8” seam allowance (there’s no need to serge this seam). Snip the seam allowance at the two waistband corners.
Flip the waistband right side out. Use a point turner to create sharp 90 degree points at both waistband corners. Then, press the seam you just sewed towards the inner waistband. Fold the waistband again, right sides together, and press the waistband along its entire length.
Your waistband is attached, now it’s time to secure it down with some topstitching. Pin well along the bottom (convex) edge of the waistband, making sure to keep the inner waistband aligned with the outer. Both bottom edges of fabric should be pressed up towards the top of the waistband.
Start topstitching on the bottom right edge. Continue to topstitch along the entire length of the bottom waistband. Pivot at the waistband corners and topstitch the entire length of the top waistband.
Almost done! The last two steps are sewing the buttonhole and attaching the jeans button.
My sewing machine features a nifty automatic buttonhole setting. This allows me to place the button in the back of a special presser foot. The machine senses the diameter of the button and makes an accurately sized buttonhole. If your machine has this feature, I recommend playing around with it until you get it mastered.
If your machine doesn’t have a feature like this, it likely still has a buttonhole setting. Make sure to mark the width of your button and play with your machine’s buttonhole settings until you get it right.
I practiced my buttonhole on a few scrap pieces of my denim through three layers of fabric to simulate the interfaced waistband.
Once you’ve perfected your buttonhole settings, sew the buttonhole onto your Jamie Jeans. After it's sewn, place a pin at each end of the button hole and use your seam ripper to open the buttonhole. Zip up your fly and overlap your waistband corners. Through the buttonhole mark where the button should go. If it’s slightly different than the pattern markings, that’s okay.
Using a pair of thread snips or an awl, poke a small hole through all layers of your waistband at your buttonhole marking. Insert the back of the button through the hole.
Now, the next few steps require some hammering against a hard surface. I always hammer my jeans buttons outside on an old stump table to ensure I don’t hammer any marks into my cutting table.
Grab a pair of needle nose pliers and a hammer or rubber mallet. If your jeans button has any decoration, is shiny, or is painted I recommend using a rubber mallet. My jeans buttons are pure brass with a matte finish, so I've found a hammer doesn’t damage them.
Place your button on top of the backing and hold it with some needle nose pliers. Give the button a few quick swings of the hammer just so that it’s snug on the backing, but not yet hammered all the way down.
Remove the needle nose pliers and continue to hammer the button onto the backing until it’s secured and snug.
Give yourself a pat on the back! Your Jamie Jeans now have a completed waistband. Try them on, button and unbutton the waistband a few times. Revel in the satisfaction that you have a 99% complete pair of jeans, made by you!
We’ll be back tomorrow with the last post and final steps of the Jamie Jeans Sewalong. We’ll be hemming our jeans and attaching optional belt loops! If you’ve been sewing along with us, don’t forget to tag your photos with #jamiejeanssewalong. Happy sewing!
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