Jamie Jeans Sewalong Pt 6: Sew Basted Seams
Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.
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It’s Monday and we’re back with the second half of the Jamie Jeans
sewalong! On Thursday and Friday we used the baste and fit method to achieve a great fit for our skinny jeans. Today we’ll be sewing up the inner, outer and crotch seams. We’re not far from the finish line!
If you decided to skip the baste and fit method and sew the Jamie Jeans straight from the pattern, you can pick back up with us on this post. Simply skip the first seam ripping step.
But first, take a look at your pattern markings. If you’re using tailor’s chalk, some of your pattern marking may have started to rub off as you pulled your basted jeans on and off. Be sure to remark those that are disappearing.
Seam Rip Waistband, Crotch and Partial Outer Seams
Now that you’ve achieved a fit you like, we need to rip out a few seams to reinforce the seams we just basted. First, seam rip your waistband off your jeans.
Now, seam rip your crotch seam so that the legs of your Jamie Jeans are separate.
Finally, seam rip the outer seams of both legs to just below the back yoke.
Note: Here you have the option of seam ripping the outer seams of both legs. This will allow you to reach the inner seams for topstitching. I chose not to topstitch my inner seams, so I’m skipping this step.
Sew Back Yokes
Modify the shape of the back yoke pattern pieces as necessary, and transfer these changes to your pattern template. My back yokes fit well once my waistband was taken in, so I’m reinforcing the seam I basted. Sew and serge the back yokes to the back legs.
Press that seam down towards the leg of your Jamie Jeans. Topstitch with the settings you used for the pocket opening panels.
Sew Inner and Outer Seams
Following the seam you basted, sew the inner leg seams and serge the edges together. Press the seam towards the front center. Here you have the option to topstitch if you've ripped out your outer seams.
Sew and serge the outer seam following the seam you basted, making sure the pocket is set correctly. Find the bottom of the pocket bag and mark with a pin on the right side of the fabric. Topstitch from the top of the jeans only to that point.
Note: It might seem odd to topstitch only this top portion of the outer seams. Take a look at your ready-to-wear jeans and you’ll notice the same detail. Because the inner leg seams are already sewn up, it’s not possible to topstitch down the entire length of the side seam. Plus, topstitching the top of the outer seams keeps the pockets firmly in place.
Sew Crotch Seam
Once your inner and outer seams are sewn, we’re ready to sew up the crotch seam. First, serge the raw edge of the crotch on only the right leg. We'll enclose the raw edge of the left crotch in the seam’s topstitching, so no need to serge that edge.
Then, like we did before, place the right leg inside the left, right sides together. Pin the crotch seam so that the right crotch extends beyond the left by 1/4”. Sew with a 1/2” seam allowance.
Press that seam towards the left.
Now you should have a pair of reassembled Jamie Jeans ready for a fly zip and waistband! Feel free to try them on again and take a few photos. Compare the new fit with the initial, straight-from-the-pattern fit. Better? Great, tomorrow we’ll move onto my favorite step, the back pockets!
Are you sewing right along with us? Make sure to tag your photos on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter with #jamiejeanssewalong. We can’t wait to see your progress!
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