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Jamie Jeans Sewalong Pt 3: Sew Front Features

By Allie

Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.

The Jamie Jeans Sewalong Part 3: Sew Front Features | Indiesew.com
 
Welcome back to part three of our Jamie Jeans Sewalong. Now that we’ve gathered our supplies and cut out our pattern pieces, we’re ready to sew! Make sure to keep your paper and fabric pattern pieces handy throughout the entire process.
 
This part of the sewalong will be longer than others with many photos. These first steps of the Jamie Jeans sewing pattern are rather straightforward. So I decided to frontload this content so that we can have more time to discuss fit in the next few posts. Despite the number of steps to sew the front features, this should be a pretty quick process, taking you no longer than an hour or two total.
 

 

Sew Pocket Opening Panel

Grab your two pocket opening panels and two lower front side pieces. Pin the pocket opening panel to the lower front side piece. I’m pinning the wrong side of the pocket opening panel to the right side of the lower front side piece to achieve the contrast look. If you want your pocket opening panels to match your lower front side pieces, pin right sides together. Make sure that the short edge with triangle point is facing the higher edge of the lower front side piece, like so:
 
Pin your pocket panels | Indiesew.com
 
Then sew along the seam with a 3/8” seam allowance. Serge seam allowances together.
 
Sew and surge your pocket panels of your jeans | Indiesew.com
 
Press the seam allowance down towards the lower front side piece.
 
Press down the seam allowance | Indiesew.com
 
Now, let’s get ready to topstitch. Because there is so much topstitching on the Jamie Jeans, now is a good time to decide what length stitch you’d like to use. Change out your thread, and on a scrap piece of your denim sew some sample top stitches of varying stitch lengths. I found that a stitch length of 3.5 was ideal.
 
Sample topstitches that will work for the Jamie Jeans | Indiesew.com
 
Topstitch along the seam you just sewed. I use a 1/8” seam allowance when I topstitch.
 
Topstitch the pocket panel | Indiesew.com
 
 

 

Attach Outer Pocket Bags

Now grab your outer pocket bag (the longer one) and pin the diagonal edge to the pocket opening panel with right sides together like so:
 
Pin the outer pocket bags | Indiesew.com
 
Don’t forget to switch your thread, and change your stitch length back to a normal stitch. Sew and serge that seam with a 3/8” seam allowance.
 
Sew and serge the outer pocket bags | Indiesew.com
 
Press that seam allowance down towards the pocket bag and topstitch.
 
Press and topstitch your outer pocket bags | Indiesew.com
 
Next, press the pocket opening panel in half, like so:
 
Press the pocket panel in half | Indiesew.com
 
Flip the pocket bag and lower front side piece back, so the seam allowances are visible and pin.
 
Flip the pocket bag and front piece back and pin | Indiesew.com
 
And sew those two seam allowances together with a 1/8” seam allowance. Make sure you’re not catching any of the outer pocket bag or lower front side piece as you sew.
 
Sew the seam allowances together | Indiesew.com
 
 

 

ATTACH Inner POCKET BAGS

Let’s move on to the inner pocket bags. Pin the inner pocket bags to the upper front side piece with right sides together.
 
Pin the inner pocket bags | Indiesew.com
 
Now sew and serge that seam with a 3/8” seam allowance.
 
Sew and serge your inner pocket bags | Indiesew.com
 
Press that seam allowance down towards the pocket bag. And understitch with a 1/8” seam allowance. Here, understitching is essentially the same as topstitching, so feel free to use topstitching thread if you prefer.
 
Press and understitch the inner pocket bags | Indiesew.com
 

 

Sew Pockets Together

Now that we have both pocket bags attached to our front side pieces, we can sew together our pockets! Pin together your pockets bags, right sides together.
 
Pin the inner and outer pocket bags together | Indiesew.com
 
Sew and serge only the bottom of the pockets together with a 3/8” seam allowance.
 
Sew and serge the bottom of the pockets together | Indiesew.com
 
The bottom of your pocket should look something like this:
 
The lovely serged bottom pocket | Indiesew.com
 
 

 

Sew Front Center Seam

Now that we've sewn together our pockets at the bottom, we’re ready to sew the front center seam. First, pin your pocket opening panel so that the top edge meets up with the notches on either side of the upper front side piece.
 
Pin the pockets at the notches | Indiesew.com
 
Pin the front side piece you just assembled to the corresponding front piece with right sides together. Make sure the pocket is set correctly and pinned well.
 
Pin the front pocket pieces together | Indiesew.com
 
Sew and serge that seam with a 3/8” seam allowance. (If you’re interested in the baste and fit method, you might be wondering why we aren’t basting this seam. It’s because this seam isn't that useful in adjusting the fit of your Jamie Jeans. So we’re sewing and topstitching like we normally would.)
 
Sew and serge the front seams | Indiesew.com
 
Press that seam away from the pockets and topstitch.
 
Press and topstitch the center seam | Indiesew.com
 
Nice work! You’ve just gotten the front panel of your jeans all ready to be assembled. Step back and admire your pretty contrast pockets and fine topstitching. Tomorrow, we’ll be basting the jeans together and evaluating the fit!
 

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