Jamie Jeans Sewalong Pt 3: Sew Front Features
Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.
All posts in this sewalong:
This part of the sewalong will be longer than others with many photos. These first steps of the Jamie Jeans sewing pattern are rather straightforward. So I decided to frontload this content so that we can have more time to discuss fit in the next few posts. Despite the number of steps to sew the front features, this should be a pretty quick process, taking you no longer than an hour or two total.
Sew Pocket Opening Panel
Grab your two pocket opening panels and two lower front side pieces. Pin the pocket opening panel to the lower front side piece. I’m pinning the wrong side of the pocket opening panel to the right side of the lower front side piece to achieve the contrast look. If you want your pocket opening panels to match your lower front side pieces, pin right sides together. Make sure that the short edge with triangle point is facing the higher edge of the lower front side piece, like so:
Then sew along the seam with a 3/8” seam allowance. Serge seam allowances together.
Press the seam allowance down towards the lower front side piece.
Now, let’s get ready to topstitch. Because there is so much topstitching on the Jamie Jeans, now is a good time to decide what length stitch you’d like to use. Change out your thread, and on a scrap piece of your denim sew some sample top stitches of varying stitch lengths. I found that a stitch length of 3.5 was ideal.
Topstitch along the seam you just sewed. I use a 1/8” seam allowance when I topstitch.
Attach Outer Pocket Bags
Now grab your outer pocket bag (the longer one) and pin the diagonal edge to the pocket opening panel with right sides together like so:
Don’t forget to switch your thread, and change your stitch length back to a normal stitch. Sew and serge that seam with a 3/8” seam allowance.
Press that seam allowance down towards the pocket bag and topstitch.
Next, press the pocket opening panel in half, like so:
Flip the pocket bag and lower front side piece back, so the seam allowances are visible and pin.
And sew those two seam allowances together with a 1/8” seam allowance. Make sure you’re not catching any of the outer pocket bag or lower front side piece as you sew.
ATTACH Inner POCKET BAGS
Let’s move on to the inner pocket bags. Pin the inner pocket bags to the upper front side piece with right sides together.
Now sew and serge that seam with a 3/8” seam allowance.
Press that seam allowance down towards the pocket bag. And understitch with a 1/8” seam allowance. Here, understitching is essentially the same as topstitching, so feel free to use topstitching thread if you prefer.
Sew Pockets Together
Now that we have both pocket bags attached to our front side pieces, we can sew together our pockets! Pin together your pockets bags, right sides together.
Sew and serge only the bottom of the pockets together with a 3/8” seam allowance.
The bottom of your pocket should look something like this:
Sew Front Center Seam
Now that we've sewn together our pockets at the bottom, we’re ready to sew the front center seam. First, pin your pocket opening panel so that the top edge meets up with the notches on either side of the upper front side piece.
Pin the front side piece you just assembled to the corresponding front piece with right sides together. Make sure the pocket is set correctly and pinned well.
Sew and serge that seam with a 3/8” seam allowance. (If you’re interested in the baste and fit method, you might be wondering why we aren’t basting this seam. It’s because this seam isn't that useful in adjusting the fit of your Jamie Jeans. So we’re sewing and topstitching like we normally would.)
Press that seam away from the pockets and topstitch.
Nice work! You’ve just gotten the front panel of your jeans all ready to be assembled. Step back and admire your pretty contrast pockets and fine topstitching. Tomorrow, we’ll be basting the jeans together and evaluating the fit!
All posts in this sewalong: