How to Sew a Lonetree Rain Jacket
Last week we showed you how we wear our Lonetree Rain Jacket. This week we're showing you how to sew it! This project is a pattern hack on my Lonetree Jacket sewing pattern and is one of my most-worn makes.
The modifications for this project are not complex. I made no changes to the general fit of the jacket. Below are the changes I made that I'll lead you through below:
- Underlined the bodices of the jacket
- Lengthened the jacket by 5"
- Enlarged the pockets by 3.25"
- Changed the zipper front closure to an overlap snap front closure
- Enlarged the hood
- Created a hood facing
- Omitted the front and back facing
- Omitted the upper pockets
- Omitted the drawstring waist
Unfortunately, I didn't photograph the step-by-step process of many of the steps below, but I have written out high-level instructions on how to make those changes. This project is intended for the intermediate sewist and is really more of an illustration of different ways to modify a pattern. I hope it helps you feel empowered to modify some patterns in your stash!
Let's get to it! Please note that the diagram at the bottom of this post will show all of the cumulative changes you need to make to the pattern pieces. I recommend reading the instructions of each section and then looking at the diagram before you start to cut your pattern.
Lengthen the bodices and facing
To create a jacket that extended past my hips, I simply added 5" to the length of the front and back bodices.
Since I decided to forgo the center front zipper I did not need the center front facing pattern piece, so did not need to lengthen it.
Underline the bodices, pockets, and hood
I wanted my Lonetree Rain Jacket to be warm so I decided to underline the bodices with a thin Pendleton Wool fabric. Before basting the exterior and lining pieces together, I made sure to cut my lining fabric 1" shorter than my exterior fabric. This helps reduce bulk in the hem.
I also underlined the pockets to keep my hands cozy in cold weather. I sewed the outer hood in exterior fabric and the inner hood in the wool fabric and basted them wrong sides together along the brim and the neckline. This is to prepare for the hood facing I added below.
I did not line the sleeves as I wanted to be able to easily slip my arms in out and of the jacket.
Add an overlapping snap closure
For this jacket I decided to forgo the zipper closure and sew an overlapping snap closure at the center front. To do this, I added 2.75" to the front bodice pattern pieces at the center front on both the exterior fabric and the lining.
Because I extended the center front to overlap, I needed to extend each end of the collar too. I added 1.25" to either end of the collar by extending the curve.
Because the center front overlap is folded over, the need for the center front facing is eliminated. So I didn't need to use that pattern piece.
After step 16 of the pattern instructions I folded the center front edge towards the wrong side by 1/4" and then again by 1.25" to make a placket. I edge stitched the placket down with a 1/8" seam allowance.
I installed snaps every 4" on each center front placket.
Enlarge the Lower Pocket
I wanted to be able to fit my iPhone 7 Plus in the pockets so I made them 3.25" longer.
I also lowered the pockets and flaps by 2" from the existing pocket markings.
Enlarge the Hood
Since I knew this jacket would be getting put to the test in heavy rain, I wanted to make sure the hood extended several inches past the top of my forehead. To make the hood larger, I extended the side hood by 2.5". I also made the center hood piece 2.5" longer. Both of these changes are shown in the diagram below.
Create a Hood Facing
For my jacket, I wanted to create a facing that would line the brim of the hood. I was afraid that the lining of my hood would get wet if it extended all the way to the brim.
To create the facing I cut a piece of exterior fabric that measured roughly 30" long by 3" wide. I pressed one long edge towards the wrong side by 1/2". And then I pinned the other raw edge of the facing around the hood brim right sides together and sewed with a 1/2" seam allowance.
After the facing was sewn to the hood, I pressed it towards the inner hood and pinned. Then I edge stitched the facing in place with a 1/8" seam allowance. I trimmed off the facing that extended past the neckline of the hood.
Pattern Piece Changes
Here's what my pattern pieces looked like after I made the changes mentioned above (the red dotted line indicates my changes). Since I omitted the upper pockets/flaps, front facing, back facing, and drawstring casing I didn't need to cut those pattern pieces out. The pocket flaps, upper/lower sleeves, and cuffs were not modified.
I'd argue that despite this long list of adjustments, the Lonetree Rain Jacket was an even faster sew than in its original state. Sewing the facings and zipper can be a time consuming process and I eliminated that entirely.
Overall, I'm incredibly happy with my new rain jacket. The fit is spot-on and it was put to the test this winter many times. I'd love to sew another one in a dark navy waxed canvas and plaid flannel lining!
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