Fabric Files: Tencel
By Allie
Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.
As different apparel fabrics become available to the sewing hobbyist it can be difficult to know how to approach them. I hear so many questions like: How do I keep modal knits from pilling in the wash, is there an easier way to cut from shifty silk crepe, and what in the heck is Tencel?
Just a few years ago, you’d be hard pressed to find fibers like cupro and modal in fabric stores. But these new fibers are now common in the fashion world and becoming more available in fabric shops because they’re so well suited to sewing clothing. Perhaps my favorite of those new fibers is Tencel (pronounced Ten-Sell).
The History of Tencel
First, it’s important to establish that Tencel is a brand name of a specific form of a fiber called lyocell (which is a form of rayon). Much like the way we use the word Kleenex to broadly to describe a tissue, the word Tencel is now often used to describe any lyocell fabric.
Tencel is a relatively young fiber, its origins beginning in the 1980s. It was developed from lyocell by a company called Courtaulds Fibres in Coventry, UK. But now the Austrian company Lenzing owns the Tencel brand.
Lenzing describes Tencel as an extremely ecofriendly product, as it’s produced in an almost 100% closed-loop system (source).
Tencel Characteristics
Tencel tends to have a very soft hand with lots of heavy drape. Because of its weight and density, Tencel is typically opaque.
We love Tencel for summer fabrics because it has all the beneficial properties of rayon and more. Tencel fabrics naturally feel cool or cold to the touch, making them ideal for hot summer days. Tencel is a breathable fiber that absorbs moisture much like silk or cotton, so it doesn’t trap heat against the body. Lenzing’s studies have shown that Tencel has superior abilities to reduce the growth of bacteria without chemical additives (source).
You’ll notice that Tencel generally has a matte, suede-like finish. It's soft against the skin and won’t irritate like polyester or wool can. It also has anti-static properties that make it a great alternative to silk.
How to Sew with Tencel
After sewing a few garments in Tencel, I’ve learned some important tips that make handling this fabric so much easier. Tencel fabrics are more suitable for the intermediate sewist due to its heavy drape. But unlike silk, Tencel isn’t slippery or shifty.
Because Tencel tends to be a pretty densely woven fabric, you do need to take a few precautions before sewing.
Be sure to use an extra sharp pair of shears or rotary cutter with this fabric. Carefully apply extra pressure to cut through more than one layer of Tencel fabric.
I recommend using sharp, extra-fine pins when sewing with Tencel. If you use pins that are too large, or have a ball-point tip, you’ll likely have a hard time pushing them through the fabric. What’s worse is that you can leave permanent pinholes in your fabric. I find that these pins work best.
I also recommend using a topstitch needle or microtex needle in your sewing machine when sewing with Tencel. In my attempts, a universal sewing machine needle was not sharp enough to sew through this dense fabric.
How to Care for Tencel
Because of its soft hand and beautiful drape, you might assume that Tencel is a delicate fabric that must be washed carefully. Luckily, I’ve found the contrary to be true! I treat my Tencel garments just like I would a rayon challis garment. In fact, it seems to wash and wear even better!
I always prewash my Tencel fabric on a warm wash cycle and medium tumble dry cycle. Don’t skip this step as Tencel is prone to considerable shrinkage!
After my garment is sewn, I continue to wash my Tencel garments on cold and line dry them. You may notice that Tencel fabric gets really stiff and rigid when wet (even stiffer than 100% rayon). But after a few hours of hanging to dry it’ll soften up nicely. Any fabric made out of wood pulp will absorb lots of moisture (that’s a benefit to wearing it, remember!).
I press my Tencel fabric on the same setting I use for rayon (medium high heat, one step below the cotton setting with lots of steam). I find that just like rayon, Tencel will press into a crisp fold, making it easy to press hems.
How to Buy Tencel Fabric
Because Tencel is just a fiber from which fabric is woven or knitted, there are many different Tencel substrates on the market. Tencel twill and shirting are the most common substrates available. Although, Tencel jerseys can be found too.
We occasionally offer Tencel fabrics from time to time (our beautiful Agave Green Tencel Shirting shown above is sold out, it's available for purchase here and here). All of our Tencel fabrics are overstock from fashion designers. Buying from Indiesew often means you’re saving fabric from the landfill! We plan on stocking a lot more Tencel in the future.
Mood has a wide range of fabrics made from Tencel, including some really pretty Tencel denims!
You’ll likely see Tencel fabrics pop up in your favorite indie fabric stores as they becomes more popular. Because of its expensive production process, Tencel tends to range in price from $14 to $18 per yard.
Garments Best Suited for Tencel
Any garment that requires lots of drape will look great sewn in Tencel. The Lonetree Vest shown below is sewn in our sold-out Olive Green Tencel Twill (will likely be restocked in the fall).
The Highlands Wrap Dress and Ogden Cami shown below are both sewn in our Agave Green Tencel Shirting (sold out, links to purchase elsewhere are above).
If you can’t tell, we’re big fans of Tencel fabrics because they’re easy to wear and easy to maintain. If you’re still on the fence about Tencel, I recommend buying a small amount and using it with a pattern like the Willow Tank or Biscayne Blouse. You’ll likely be converted to a Tencel lover after one sew!
Happy sewing!
Pin It
We've created a Pinterest friendly image so that you can save this post for later, when you need it:

Comments
No comments yet, be the first to leave some feedback!
Browse Related Posts
Get The Indiesew Newsletter
Sent weekly with new blog posts, new sewing patterns and deals!
- April 2018
- March 2018
- January 2018
- December 2017
- November 2017
- October 2017
- September 2017
- August 2017
- July 2017
- June 2017
- May 2017
- April 2017
- March 2017
- February 2017
- January 2017
- December 2016
- November 2016
- October 2016
- September 2016
- August 2016
- July 2016
- June 2016
- May 2016
- April 2016
- March 2016
- February 2016
- January 2016
- December 2015
- November 2015
- October 2015
- September 2015
- August 2015
- July 2015
- June 2015
- May 2015
- April 2015
- March 2015
- February 2015
- January 2015
- December 2014
- November 2014
- October 2014
- September 2014
- August 2014
- July 2014
- June 2014
- May 2014
Leave your comment
In an effort to reduce spam, you must be logged in to leave a comment. Please log in or create an account.